In depicting themselves and each other, Downtown artists pursued innovative techniques and new formal possibilities—Chuck Close’s fingerprint portrait of the composer Philip Glass and John Ahearn’s painted plaster casts, to name just two examples. They explored how a sitter’s likeness intersects with perceptions of individuality—as in Richard Prince’s double portrait of himself and Cindy Sherman dressed as twins. Capturing the whirlwind of bars, clubs, and parties in a series of lively, expressive, and often moody shots, Downtown artists harnessed photography’s flexibility and power as a fine-art medium to document the many colorful characters inhabiting the scene. Nan Goldin’s photographs of her Downtown compatriots exemplify this paradoxical contrast of vibrant color and deep melancholia, as does Peter Hujar’s portrait of the Warhol Factory superstar Candy Darling on her deathbed.

Peter Hujar, Candy Darling on Her Deathbed, 1974. Vintage gelatin silver print, 15 7/8 x 19 7/8 in. Courtesy Matthew Marks Gallery, New York

A fixture on the Downtown scene, Candy Darling starred in numerous Warhol films—including Flesh and Women in Revolt—and inspired Lou Reed’s songs “Candy Says” and “Walk on the Wild Side.”  Here Peter Hujar captures the drag queen’s sharply chiseled, composed beauty—which she maintained even when dying of leukemia.