Dept. of Performance Studies            Mondays, 4-7 pm
New York University                     Spring 1998
721 Broadway, 6th fl          
New York, NY 10003                      fax: 212-254-7885

                           FOOD AND PERFORMANCE

                       Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett

     Food, its preparation, presentation, and consumption,
     may be viewed as a complex system of performance. 
     After considering the physiology of taste and smell and
     the discourse of gastronmy, we will analyze the design,
     staging, and choreography of food preparation,
     presentation, and consumption.  Using cross-cultural
     and interdisciplinary approaches, our analysis will
     extend beyond strictly performative and aesthetic
     concerns to a consideration of historical and social
     issues.  In the spirit of developing a performance
     studies approach to the study of food, we will pay
     special attention to artists who use food in their work
     as well as to the aesthetics and politics of food in
     cultural context.  In the process, we will work towards
     an understanding of the body in sensory as well as
     corporal terms.


	Books have been ordered at the NYU Book Center and put
on reserve at Bobst.  Articles will be available in the PS
Archive.  Readings will be discussed in class, individual
students will be asked to take responsibility for summarizing the
argument of particular readings, and others will be called on to
further explicate the material.

     See the Book List for recent work on food,
including books ordered at NYU Book Center.  Kitchen Arts and Letters
(1435 Lexington Ave, 212-876-5550) is a good place to locate food books.

BKG Essays

Essays by others

Student Research Papers

Site Visits

     In addition to the Monday classes, there will be site visits
at other times: possibilities include a matzo baking factory, tea
ceremony, pastry competition, food styling studio, and St.
Joseph's tables.  Several site visits will be organized specially
for the class.  Others can be visited individually at a time
convenient to you.  Films and videos that are assigned can be
viewed at Avery Fisher Media Center at Bobst and in some cases in
the PS Archive.


     Sunday May 3 will be devoted to an all-day conference at which
everyone will present their work in the form of a short oral report. 

Written Assignments

     Written assignments include field reports on site visits, to
be included in a final portfolio of work done for the course, and
a final research paper. 

     Research papers will be posted. 

Research Paper

     Project proposal due February 23.
     Final paper (and portfolio) due April 29.
     Oral report due May 3.

     Based on original research using primary sources, whether
archival or based on observation and interviews, the research
paper will document and analyze a food event, setting, or
phenomenon.  Aim for rich documentation, strong conceptual focus,
detailed analyses, and sustained analysis informed by readings
for the course.  The paper will be 20 pages long, double spaced. 
Deadline: Wednesday April 29 for research paper and portfolio.

     The project proposal (3 pages, double spaced) should clearly
set out the case you will explore, state the research question or
problem, indicate how you will do the research, offer a brief
preliminary outline of the paper, and indicate both what you have
already read and what you plan to read.  Identify where you most
need help with the project.  Deadline: February 23.

     The oral report (2 pages double spaced, 5 minutes) will be
delivered during the conference on May 3.


     The portfolio should include all written work done for the
course, including the proposal, the final paper, field reports,
and any other writing that you have done in relation the course.
Deadline: Wednesday April 29.

Food Assignments

     Each person attending the class is asked to prepare an
appropriate food for one class or the all-day conference on May
3.  Collaborations are strongly encouraged. Assignments will be
made during the first two weeks of class.  The food should in
some way capture the issues being addressed in the readings and
discussion for that session.  

Course Web Page

     There will be a course web page and class newsgroup 
Everyone is expected to participate in electronic discussion and
to access the course from the web page, where there will be
updates, full texts of some readings, and links to useful
Internet sites.


                           FOOD AND PERFORMANCE

                       Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett

                   This web page will be regularly updated.


1.   1/26 Introduction


2.   2/2  Food and the Moral Order

Counihan and Esterik, Food and Culture, pp. 20-91.
Schama, Embarrassment of Riches, pp. 150-188.


Appadurai, "Gastro-politics in Hindu South-Asia," American
Ethnologist 8 (1981): 494-511.
Douglas, Purity and Danger: An Analysis of Concepts of Pollution
and Taboo (1966).
Simoons, Eat Not This Flesh: Food Avoidances From Prehistory to
the Present (2nd ed., 1994).


3.   2/9  Food and the Senses

     GUEST: Richard Schechner
Brillat-Savarin, The Philospher in the Kitchen, pp. 13-113, 160-
Barthes, "Reading Brillat-Savarin," in On Signs, pp. 61-75.
Howes, ed., The Varieties of Sensory Experience, pp. 61-76, 111-
127, 221-230.
Bharata-Muni, Natyashastra, chpt 6.
Schechner, "Thoughts on Rasaesthetics" 
Marinetti, The Futurist Cookbook, pp. 21-41.
Kirshenblatt-Gimblett,  "Edible Art," Artforum
(Nov 1989): 20-


Hibbitts, "Coming to
Our Senses: Communication and Legal Expression in Performance
Cultures". See specially the section on taste and smell.
Classen et al, Aroma: The Cultural History of Smell (1994).
Corbin, The Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social
Imagination (1986).
Lin, Hsiang Ju and Tsuifeng Lin, Chinese Gastronomy (1969).
Cytowic, Richard E. "Synesthesia:
Phenomenology and Neuropsychology," Psyche 2,10 (July 1995).
Costa, Luciano da F. "Synesthesia:
A Real Phenomenon? Or Real Phenomena?" Psyche 2,26 (Jan 1996).
Baron-Cohen, Simon. "Is 
There a Normal Phase of Synesthesia in Development?  Psyche 2,27 (June
See Book List for additional readings on the
senses: Ackerman, Apt, Bynum and Porter, Camporesi, Classen, Seremetakis,

4.   2/16 Anatomy of Taste

     GUEST:  Linda Bartoshuk

Please bring a mirror to class.

Duffy, Valerie B. and Linda M. Bartoshuk. "Sensory Factors in Feeding,"
Bartoshuk, Linda M. "The Biological Basis of Food Perception and
Acceptance," Food Quality and Preference 4 (1993): 21-32.
Cain, William S. "What We Remember About Odors," Perfumer and Flavorist 9
(June/July 1984): 17-21.
Ruin, Hans. "Smell--Notes for a Phenomenology of Olfaction," Kris, Nr
43-44 (1991): 138-141.


Beauchamp and Bartoshuk, eds. Tasting and Smelling (1997).
Logue, The Psychology of Eating and Drinking (1991).
Zugotowicz, Monica. A Study of the Use of Odor in Western Performance. MA
Thesis, Department of Performance Studies, New York University, 1980.
See Book List for additional readings on taste
and olfaction: Apt, Santich, Schivelbusch, Susskind, Vroon et al.


5.   2/23 Taste and Discourse

     GUEST: Joshua Wesson, Best Cellars
     EVENT: Wine tasting

Amerine, Maynard, Wines: Their Sensory Evaluation, pp. 18-54.
Rosengarten and Wesson, Red Wine With Fish, selections.
Broadbent, The Great Vintage Wine Book (selected wine
Terry Theise Estate Selections 1993 (selected wine descriptions).
Lehrer, Wine and Conversation, pp. 3-29.


Silverstein, Michael. "Oenophily and Oinoglossia," Unpublished paper,
Young, Alan. Making Sense of Wine: A Study in Sensory Perception
Douglas, Mary. ed. Constructive Drinking (1987).


6.   3/2 Edible Spectacle:  Visual Display

Nevile, Jenny. "The Musical Banquet in Italian Quattrocento
Festivities," Symposium of Australian Gastronomy, 4, 1988
(Sydney, 1990):125-142.
el-Khoury, "Delectable Decoration: Taste and Spectacle in Jean
Fran‡ois de Bastide's La petite maison," Lusitania 9 (1998): 48-
Bonnet, "Careme, or the Last Sparks of Decorative Cuisine,"
Lusithania 9 (1998): 155-182.
Arens, "The Spectacle," The Art of Eating in France: Manners and
Menues in the Nineteenth Century, pp. 214-241.
Barthes, "Ornamental Cuisine," Mythologies, pp. 78-80.


Wilson, C. Anne, ed. 'The Appetite and the Eye': Visual Aspects of
Food and Its Presentation," Food and Society 2 (Edinburgh: Edinburgh
University Press, 1991).
Wilson, C. Anne, ed. 'Banquetting Stuffe': The Fare and Social Baround 
of the Tudor and Stuart Banquet. Food and Society 1 (Edinburgh: Edinburgh
University Press, 1991).
Bursche, Stefan. Tafelzier das Barock (Munich: Edition Schneider, 1974).


7.   3/9  Japanese Tea Ceremony

     Workshop:  Marybeth Welch (place to be announced--if you are
     not formally enrolled or an approved auditor and wish to attend 
     please contact me). Wear loose and comfortable clothes.  A few people
     should also wear clean white socks.

Tetsuzo, Tanikawa. "The Esthetics of Chanoyu, Part I," Chanoyu
Quarterly, no. 23 (1980): 37-47.
Soshitsu Sen XV, Urasenke Chanoyu (Handbooks One and Two) (Kyoto:
Urasenke Foundation, 1980)--I, pp. 3-25.
Sen, Soshitsu. Chado: The Japanese Way of Tea (Tokyo:
Weatherhill, 1979), pp. 118-129, 166-182.
Tsuji, Kaichi. Kaiseki: Zen Tastes in Japanese Cooking (Kyoto:
Kodansha, 1972), pp. 15-18, 163-191.
Yamamoto, Masaru. "Japanese Food: A Feast for the Eyes," in A
Feast for the Eyes: The Japanese Art of Food Arrangement by
Yoshio Tsuchiya (Tokyo: Kodansha, 1985), pp. 35-51 and "Foods and
Utensils in Japanese History," pp. 137-152.

     Traditional Chanoyu



Sen, Soshitsu. The Japanese Way of Tea: From Its Origins in China
to Sen Rikyu (Honolulu: University of Hawai'i Press, 1998).
Kakuzo, Okakura. The Book of Tea (Rutland: Tuttle, 1956).
Kondo, Dorinne. "The Way of Tea: A Symbolic Analysis," Man n.s.
20 (1985): 287-307.
Anderson, Jennifer L. "Japanese Tea Ritual," Man n.s. 22 (1987):
Bibliography on Tea Ceremony
Blofeld, John. The Chinese Art of Tea (Boston: Shambala, 1985).
Roth, Rodris. "Tea Drinking in 18th Century America: Its
Etiquette and Equipage," United States National Museum Bulletin
225 (1961): 61-91, Paper 14, Contributions from  Museum of
History and Technology.
Hattox, Ralph S, Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social
Beverage in the Medieval Near East. Near Eastern Studies, No. 3
(Seattle: University of Washington Press).
Smith, Robert. "Whence the Samovar?" Petits Propos Culinaires 4
(1980): 57-72.

     RECOMMENDED VISIT:  Urasenke Chanoyu Center, 153 East 69th
     St., NYC 10021. 212-988-6161.  Urasenke offers tours and
     classes.  Visit their Japanese tea house, set in the
     courtyard of this upper east side brownstone.

9.   3/23 Kitchens

     SITE VISIT:  Michael Lomonaco, Windows on the World, One World Trade
     Center, 107th floor.  Tour of kitchen  **DATE CHANGED to April 6**

     Fine, Gary Alan. Kitchens: The Culture of Restaurant Work (University of
     California Press, 1996).

     NOTE:  From March 10-20, Michael Lomonaco will be taping his television
     show, Michael's Place, at the Food Network, from 11 am - 4 pm every day
     except Mondays.  A class visit to the taping can be arranged.

     Banner, Lois W. "Why Women Have Not Been Great Chefs," South Atlantic
     Quarterly 72 (2) 1973: 198-212.
     Cooper, Ann. "A Woman's Place Is in the Kitchen": The Evolution of Women
     Chefs (Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1998).
     McPhee, John. "Profiles: Brigade de Cuisine." The New Yorker (Feb 19):
     Sanger, Marjory Bartlett. Escoffier: Master Chef. New York: Farrer,
     Straus, and Giroux, 1980.
     Pirazzoli-t'Serstevens, Michele. "A Second-Century Chinese Kitchen
     Scene," Food and Foodways 1 (1985):95-104.

     3/29 National Pastry Arts Competition: Javits Center

10.  3/30 Passover/Easter

     SITE VISIT:    10 am. Tour of matzo baking factory.  Meet at 305 Kingston
     Ave., just south of Eastern Parkway, near the Kingston Avenue station of
     the #3 train.  Allow one hour from Manhattan.  $10 fee.

     Feeley-Harnik, Gillian. "The Last Supper," The Lord's Table: The Meaning
     of Food in Early Judaism and Christianity, pp. 107-148.
     Cernea, Ruth Fredman. "The Summarizing Plate," The Passover Seder: An
     Anthropological Perspective on Jewish Culture, pp. 129-147.
     Weinreich, Beatrice. "The Americanization of Passover," Studies in
     Biblical and Jewish Folklore, pp. 329-366.
     Lehrhaupt, Linda. "The Organizational Seder in American Jewish Life,"
     Western Folklore 65, 3 (1986):186-202. 

     Rubin, Corpus Christi: The Eucharist in Late Medieval Culture, 1991.
     Kilgous, From Communion to Cannibalism: An Anatomy of Metaphors of
     Incorporation, 1990.
     Jochnowitz, Eve. "Holy Rolling: Making Sense of Baking Matso"

     Rosa, Craig. Shmura Matzo Baking in Crown Heights: A Proselytourism
     Production, Masters Thesis, Performance Studies

     The Latke Hamentashen Debate.


11.  4/6  Writing Food:  Recipes and Cookbooks

     SITE VISIT:    10:00 am. Chef Michael Lomonaco, Windows on
                    the World, One World Trade Center, 107th
                    floor.  Tour of kitchen.

     Wheaton, Barbara "Cookbooks and Cooking in the Sixteenth
     Century," Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table
     from 1300 to 1789 (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania
     Press, 1983), 27-41.
     Appadurai, Arjun. "How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks
     in Contemporary India," Comparative Studies in Society and
     History 30, 1 (1988):3-24.
     Fisher, M.F.K. "The Anatomy of a Recipe," With Bold Knife
     and Fork (New York: Paragon, 1969), 13-24.
     De Silva, Cara. ed. In Memory's Kitchen: A Legacy from the
     Women of Terezin (New York: Jason Aronson, 1996), ix-xvi,
     Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Barbara. "Kitchen Judaism," in
     Getting Comfortable in New York: The American Jewish Home,
     1880-1950 (New York: Jewish Museum, 1990), 75-105.
     Schmidt, Paul. "As If a Cookbook Had Anything to Do with
     Writing," Prose 8 (spring 1974), 179-203.

     Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Barbara."The Moral Sublime: The Temple Emanuel
     Fair and Its Cookbook, Denver, 1888," Recipes for Reading:
     Community Cookbooks, Stories, Histories, ed. Anne L. Bower (Amherst:
     University of Massachusetts Press, 1997).
     Jochnowitz, Eve. "Health and Revolution: Malky Eisenberger's Yiddish
     Cookbook." Proceedings of conference on women and Yiddish.
     Mendelson, Anne. Stand Facing the Stove: The Story of the
     Women Who Gave America The Joy of Cooking (New York: Henry
     Holt, 1996).
     Leonardi, Susan J. "Recipes for Reading: Summer Pasta, Lobster
     a la Riseholme, and Key Lime Pie," PMLA 104, 3 (May 1989):
     Esterik, Penny Van. "Feeding Their Faith: Recipe Knowledge
     Among Thai Buddhist Women," Food and Foodways 1 (1986): 198-

12.  4/13 	Fighting with Food I: Performing Hunger

Shack, "Hunger, Anxiety, and Ritual," in Food and Culture, 125-
Bynam, "Fast, Feast, and Flesh," in Food and Culture, 138-158.
Bruch, "Body Image and Self-Awareness," in Food and Culture, 211-
Bordo, "Anorexia Nervosa," in Food and Culture, 226-250.


Feldman, Alan. Formations of Violence: The Body, Narrativity and
Political Terror in Northern Ireland (Chicago: University of
Chicago Press, 1990).
Brumberg, "The Appetite as Voice," in Food and Culture, 159-179.
Ellman, Maud. The Hunger Artists: Starving, Writing, and
Imprisonment (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1993).
Hamsun, Knut. Hunger (New York: AVon, 1980).
Kafka, "The Hunger Artist," The Penal Colony: Stories and Short
Pieces (New York: Schocken, 1961), 243-256.
Orwell, George. Down and Out in Paris and London (Harmondsworth:
Penguin, 1974 [1933]).


13.  4/20 Fighting with Food II:   Performing Excess

Rozin, Paul and April E. Fallon, "A Perspective on Disgust,"
Psychological Review 49, 1 (1987): 23-41.
Allison, "Japanese Mothers and Obentos," in Food and Culture,
Fink, Beatrice C. "Food as Object, Activity and Symbol in Sade,"
Romantic Review 65, 2 (1974): 96-102.
Bakhtin, Mikhael. "The Banquet, the Body and the Underworld," in
The Bakhtin Reader (London: Arnold, 1994), 226-244.


Suskind, Peter. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (NY: Pocket
Books, 1991).
Codere, Helen. Fighting with Property: A Study of Kwakiutl
Potlaching and Warfare, 1792-1930, AMerican Ethnological Society
Monographs, no. 18, 1950.
Schwabe, Calvin W. Unmentionable Cuisine (Charlottesville:
University Press of Virginia, 1979).


14.  4/27 	Gastroperformance revisited

          GUEST:  Demonstration of 4-star service

Shelton, Allen. "A Theater for Eating, Looking, and Thinking: The
Restaurant as Symbolic Space," Sociological Spectrum 10
Wechsberg, Joseph. "Tafelspitz for the Hofrat," Blue Trout and
Black Truffles (London: Gollancz, 1953), 70-82.

     4/29 Final paper due


15.  5/3  SUNDAY Conference:  9 am to 6 pm.
See the notes of Lacey Torge on how to make a strong conference
presentation: Conference Protocol. Papers and oral
presentations  are being posted.