July 29, 2005
I yearn for green. Purslane, oak leaf lettuce, dandelion, flat leaf parsley, dill, broccoli, watercress.... Today I made a delicious soup, inspired by Felipe Rojas-Lobardi, Soup, Beautiful Soup. The soups I make from this book are cauliflower, broccoli, and carrot, all them pureed and delicious. Today, I made the broccoli soup, but added a bunch of watercress. Wonderful hot or cold. Boil 6 cups of water. Add a chopped onion, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tsp grated ginger, and a tsp chopped green chili. As the onion starts to soften, add 1.5 lbs broccoli (pull thick skin from the stalks, discard the skin, cut up the stalks, and separate the florets). As the broccoli starts to cook (while still green and firm), add bunch of watercress, washed. Cover and let cook a few minutes till tender, but still bright green. With a slotted spoon, remove the solids and place in food processor or blender. Do this in two batches, adding about 2 cups of the liquid each time. Add salt to taste and freshly grated nutmeg. Puree till relatively smooth. Serve hot or cold.
July 27, 2005
Avinadav will cook with us August 29 in Toronto. He has asked us to respond to a menu he created--as Dina says, "He wants to make all of it."--and all of it looks wonderful. I love the goat yogurt variations running all the way through the menu.
Starters מנה ראשונה
סלק בתנור ממולא בטרטר דג על מצע סלט פול עם יוגורט עזים, צנון, שמן זית ולימונים מומלחים
Baked beet stuffed with fish tartar, served on fava salad with goat yogurt, radish, olive oil and salted lemons.
בצל ממולא על ירקות שורש
Stuffed onions served on white roots
ליום חם: מרק גספצו'
For hot day: gazpacho soup
ליום קריר: קפוצ'ינו של קרם פלפלים צלויים (מוגש בכוסות קפה)
For chilly day: Grilled pepper cream cappuccino (served in coffee cups)
Main Courseמנה עיקרית
פילה דג ים צלוי על חציל קטן צלוי עם טחינה ויוגורט
Grilled sea fish fillet served on grilled baby eggplant with tehina and goat yogurt
סורבה יוגורט עזים בשמן זית על מרק תות.
Goat yogurt sorbet with olive oil, served with strawberry soup.
Bread לחם: פוקצ'ה
Home made focaccia
July 19, 2005
Have not blogged in a while. Too hot to bake sourdough bread. Besides Max is in New Zealand and his team is not here for lunches. No way I could consume all 7 lbs of my mammoth loaf myself. More important, I have been ensconsed in my cave, with only a ceiling fan to mitigate the heat, with an unwavering focus on completing They Called Me Mayer July: Painted Memories of a Jewish Childhood in Poland before the Holocaust. Sent it off yesterday and celebrated with a long nap. It's been a diet of blueberries and yogurt, with the odd plum, peach, or nectarine, an occasional package of wakame instant soup, a salad a few weeks ago, crackers and peanut butter (until the peanut butter ran out), and the occasional take-out order of vegetable dumplings from my favorite hole in the wall on Eldridge Street.
Dinner with Mark and Greta last week and their friend Klaude. Delicious pickled lox, scrumptious red caviar, with thinly sliced French country bread and sweet butter, grilled tuna, salads, apple strudel and Mark's favorite, blood orange sorbet. Highlight was the borsht, well, not the borsht we ate, which was excellent (courtesy of Zabar's), but the borsht conversation. First, there was the essence of borsht (30 lbs of beets, plus much else), which takes days to make and results in a clear liquid of extraordinary flavor and intensity. Klaude ate this borsht in Zakopane and extracted the recipe from the chef. Second, after I described my chłodnik, which I make with raw beet juice, or, if I am ambitious, with my own rosl, the liquid from fermented beets, there followed a wonderful conversation about chłodnik in Pan Tadeusz by the Polish national poet Adam Mickiewicz. I vowed then and there to finally read this book and to convene my Polish colleagues for a Pan Tadeusz chłodnik accompanied by a chłodnik reading in Polish and English from the book. And, as I was writing these words, Mark emailed to say he bought a copy of Pan Tadeusz for me and that it was in the mail!
Mężczyznom dano wódkę; za czym wszyscy siedli
I chłodnik zabielany milcząc żwawo jedli.
Po chłodniku szły raki, kurczęta, szparagi,
W towarzystwie kielichów węgrzyna, malagi;
Jedzą, piją, a milczą wszyscy. Nigdy pono
Od czasu jako mury zamku podźwigniono,
Który uraczał hojnie tylu szlachty bratów,
Tyle wesołych słyszał i odbił wiwatów,
Nie pamiętano takiej posępnej wieczerzy;
Tylko pukanie korków i brzęki talerzy
Odbijała zamkowa sień wielka i pusta:
Rzekłbyś, iż zły duch gościom zasznurował usta.
This quintessential summer soup is made from beets, beet greens, sour milk (in the absence of which, use buttermilk, kefir, or yogurt--some use sour cream), radish, cucumber, pickles, lemon, hard boiled egg, dill, chives, and, for a fancy version (not for me) veal or shrimp. I sometimes serve mine with a hot boiled potato on the side.
Chłodnik #4: Alice B. Toklas (I will leave out the veal and shrimp, will cut the eggs in half, and use buttermilk rather than sour cream. Nice with a big boiled potato.)
2 ounces lean veal cut in small pieces cooked in water to cover.
2 ounces beets cooked until tender and crushed through a sieve. Keep the water in which they were cooked.
1 teaspoon chives cut in very small lengths.
1 teaspoon powdered dill.
10 prawns, can be replaced by 16 large shrimps.
1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper
1 cucumber peeled, seeds removed and very thinly sliced.
2 cups sour heavy cream.
6 hard-boiled eggs sliced.
Add the cucumber to the beets and the water in which they were cooked, then the veal and its juice. Stir in the sour cream gradually, add the dill, salt and pepper, the chives, the prawns or the shrimps,. Add the eggs carefully. Serve ice-cold.
1 kg. uncooked beetroots
1 leaf of bayleaf
About 1 lt. of thick smooth yogurt
250 ml. of sourcream
2-3 cucumbers(small variety with no seeds) or 1 large one
Chives or 1 small bunch of spring onion
Handfull of dill
1 egg /person
A little bit of ham....or tiny crabs or prawns for special occasions
If you like you can add some radish (if it's in season)
Pepper & salt
First you peel and coarsely grate the beetroots and bring them to the boil with a cup of water. Simmer and add the bayleaf, P&S coarsely ground and the juice of 1 lemon to keep that beautiful red colour. Take this juice off the heat when the beetroot is cooked but just still slightly crunchy. You can make this juice earlier (a day in advance) and keep it in the fridge for the best effect. You can also add the cucumbers, coarsely grated, to this base before you put it in the fridge. but take out the bayleaf.
When you want to serve add the yoghurt, sour cream, finely chopped spring onion and dill, the ham and eventually the radish. The result should be a very pink, quiet unappetising but delicious substance.
Season to flavour and garnish with hardboiled eggs and dill.