April 22, 2004
s.v. Kedgeree, Kitchery
From Sir Henry Yule, Hobson-Jobson: A glossary of colloquial Anglo-Indian words and phrases, and of kindred terms, etymological, historical, geographical and discursive. New ed. edited by William Crooke, B.A. London: J. Murray, 1903.
KEDGEREE, KITCHERY , s. Hind. khich&rtod;i�, a mess of rice, cooked with butter and da�l (see DHALL), and flavoured with a little spice, shred onion, and the like; a common dish all over India, and often served at Anglo-Indian breakfast tables, in which very old precedent is followed, as the first quotation shows. The word appears to have been applied metaphorically to mixtures of sundry kinds (see Fryer, below), and also to mixt jargon or lingua franca. In England we find the word is often applied to a mess of re-cooked fish, served for breakfast; but this is inaccurate. Fish is frequently eaten with kedgeree, but is no part of it. ["Fish Kitcherie" is an old AngloIndian dish, see the recipe in Riddell, Indian Domestic Economy, p. 437.]
c. 1340.--"The munj (Moong) is boiled with rice, and then buttered and eaten. This is what they call Kishri�, and on this dish they breakfast every day."--Ibn Batuta, iii. 131.
c. 1443.--"The elephants of the palace are fed upon Kitchri."--Abdurrazza�k, in India in X Vth Cent. 27.
c. 1475.--"Horses are fed on pease; also on Kichiris, boiled with sugar and oil; and early in the morning they get shishenivo" (?). --Athan. Nikitin, in do., p. 10.
The following recipe for Kedgeree is by Abu'l Fa&ztod;l:-
c. 1590.--"Khichri, Rice, split d�l, and gh�, 5 ser of each; 1/3 ser salt; this gives 7 dishes."--A�i�n, i. 59.
1648.--"Their daily gains are very small, . . . and with these they fill their hungry bellies with a certain food called Kitserye." --Van Twist, 57.
1653.--"Kicheri est vne sorte de legume dont les Indiens se nourissent ordinairement. "--De la Boullaye-le-Gouz, ed. 1657, p. 545.
1672.--Baldaeus has Kitzery, Tavernier Quicheri [ed. Ball, i. 282, 391].
1673.--"The Diet of this Sort of People admits not of great Variety or Cost, their delightfullest Food being only Cutcherry a sort of Pulse and Rice mixed together, and boiled in Butter, with which they grow fat." --Fryer, 81.
Again, speaking of pearls in the Persian Gulf, he says: "Whatever is of any Value is very dear. Here is a great Plenty of what they call Ketchery, a mixture of all together, or Refuse of Rough, Yellow, and Unequal, which they sell by Bushels to the Russians."--Ibid. 320.
Posted by BKG at April 22, 2004 12:26 AM
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