Max Schumacher New York ms518@is7.nyu.edu Paper for Food and Performance with Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett Performance Studies, Tisch School of the Arts, New York University The Fourth Place - My Cafe Is My Sand-box(1) Play with your food and your computers - The role of food in cybercafes The issue of food in cybercafes reveals the antagonism of the fully organic of food and the totally electronic of computers and how the analogy of these two realms is not crucial to a cybercafe. Food and computers are reduced to their function as attributes in a complex semiotic structure that contains and represents playfulness on different levels. The theme-cafes with a multi-functional service distinguish each other in their degree of self-awareness of their playfulness. They play with their themes, food and computers, trying to create a cafe that nourishes your mind as well as your body(2). Preface My first approach was focusing on the role of food and its relationship with computers. For that I observed the consumers in my two main sites, the Cybercafe on Lafayette and the Internetcafe on 3rd Street. I hardly saw anybody eat, most of them had only coffee, some didnt consume food / beverages at all. My initial fascination with the paradox and incongruity of two realms, food and computers, seemed to have no empirical evidence. If the act of eating is grotesque, does it not only subvert the official seriousness as Bakhtin calls it (3) in general, but the cleaness and purity and therefore the cool and unapproachable cyberspace as well? If we suppose that cyberspaces main qualities are unbodilyness and speed, what does the proximity or synchronicity of food mean to the customer? What does it tell us about the consumers behaviour? Apparently its rather the stimulative qualities of sugar and caffeein supporting the act of increased brain activity of the computer user. Most waiters and consumers interviewd were very outspoken and self-aware about these effects. Nobody mentioned the desire to consciously combine the pleasures of eating and surfing the net etc. I had to admit that I had believed my own assumptions of simultaneous pleasures of eating and surfing the net were mass-phenomenas. I do like eating and computing simoultaniously and I do like Bachtins ideas of the grotesque. Finally I found out that all these aspects have a role in the play of the complex semiotic structure that is proven to guarantee the survival of a cafe-genre that faces a crisis. In an analyzis of food and computers in cybercafes nothing can be central because the point is that nothing may be central in a cybercafe, neither the food nor the computers. Introduction My point of departure is the crisis of cybercafes which explains the need of a polymorphous character of these places. This character is based on playfulness which I define as postmodern form of identity (according to Z.Bauman) and discuss with Ray Oldenburgs model of the third place. The playfulness of cybercafes produces potentially a grotesque attitude towards cyberspace. The grotesque act of eating familiarizes the seriousness of cyberspaces hypermobility. In the following I investigate the strategies of three cybercafes. Since cybercafes double their appearance by existing virtually and physically I start my approaches with a look on their web-pages, like many patrons do as well. This reveals the elements the cafe owners emphasize. I continue that analysis with my fieldwork at the actual cafes. 1) The Cybercafe stages avant-gardness in a design theater where food and computers become decorative elements in an aesthetisized visual play. 2) The Mega-Bite positions food and computers central under the paradigm of kosherness. 3) The Internet Cafe performs playfulness. The marginalization of computers and the emphasis on food on their web-page are meant to lower the threshold to the place and to cyberspace. Not depending on neither nor, the cafe is a perfect example for a polymorphous cafe. In the end I assert limitations in Oldenburgs rigid model. By insisting on the dominance of conversation at third places he contradicts the playfulness he postulates for them. This I see rooted in his limited definition of play. I engage Cailloiss expanded model of plays to develope a postmodern playfulness. This kind of playfulness can be found in a cafe where food-consumption and computer-use are part of a variety of possible activities. This is what explains the continuous success of the Internet Cafe and broadens the idea from a third to a fourth place. Kick-off with the Doomed The New York Times has only published six articles on cybercafes. Four of them were written in 1996, the year most cybercafes opened in New York. At that time it was trendy, fresh and news fit to print (NY Times motto). According to a recent New York Times article, cybercafes are facing a crisis, if not their decline. Mixing java and Java seemed like a good idea at one time, but it faded fast.(4), as Michel Marriott puts it.. So, is this the tombstone of a genre? The end of an experiment? The proof that computers and food dont match? Its just the end of a media hype. And its an attempt to construct a very mono-causal history and simplified explanation of the phenomena of computers in food-places. Marriotts article lacks precise research and exaggerates a specific profile of customers - who are all about to get their own computer and sharply cut down their visits to cybercafes once they got one. They sit between deserted computers and are not even paying customer(s). It is correct, some places closed down and there are problems for existing cybercafes. Still, the first given example, the IDT Mega Bite did not close down because of financial problems. On the contrary, the business was extremely well doing, as I will describe later. The logic of the article is that because everybody has a computer at home, nobody needs to go to cybercafes any more. In countries where computer and Internet use has significantly lagged behind that in the United States, the cybercafe scene still sizzles. The only alternative are tourist places like Hawaii, where people miss their computers or have time for the fun part in it. I strongly disagree with the polemic of this thesis. Of course the increased amount of private internet-access has had its impact on cybercafes, but I rather investigated the quality (what are the cafes like and what do people do there?) rather than the quantity (numbers of customers and cafes). How have cybercafes changed? And why do they still exist in New York City? What has food got to do with this? No wonder Marriott places Arthur Perley at the very end the article: The owner of the Internetcafe, is contradicting the tendency of the article. He was the first to open a cybercafe in New York. And his business is doing fine - which is not mentioned in the article. This is the kind of place that we hope people would enjoy even if there werent any computers here. Once, the dazzle wears off, once the hype wears off, then reality is sitting there. What is it? Oh, its a computer sitting in the corner, and you have a cafe.(4) This needs to be interpreted. I will do that with this paper. Contextualize Cybercafes: Playground versus Monolith Neither food nor computers are central to a cybercafe. Food and computers are both used as attributes, conceptual and actual decoration. Their presence is not necessarily crucial to a cybercafe. Their role is decreasing as leading theme. Never the less they are important. It is the significant characteristic of late nineties cybercafes that they do not depend on one central thing. Cafes use the aura of computers, food, newspapers and games. They do provide a service linked to these fields, but the aura-provider (computers etc.) only work within a particular setting. They compliment each other. If there was no drinks served, the pure service of computer facilities is what we get at Kinkos. Only because there is the aura of a cafe, of coffee culture, computing becomes enjoyable as leisure time. Otherwise we would have a Kinkos setting. Only because we have newspapers and books, computers are not dominating the Internetcafe. A huge variety of customers with very diverse ideas about what to do in a cafe can be satisfied in multi-service cafes because of the variety offered and the feeling of playfulness. The aura of computers does re-evaluate food. The aura of food does have an impact on computing. The same is true for all auras for all kinds of themes / services. Places like Newscafe and Drips (Amsterdam/83rd) provide either newspapers or dating-catalogues. In the former case the name of the place and its decoration correspond to the main idea of the place, in the latter it is insider knowledge that is necessary to the customer to know that the trendy place with ancient cereal boxes at the wall is not only an arty hang-out place. Both places offer entertainment which is not paid for extra or which one is not expected to take advantage of.. But because there is a possible occupation, time is treated differently. Customers are not expected to hang out for long in Starbucks-type cafes. These places are fast-food cafes. Many other places expect you to consume not only a drink, but at least sweets. And in bars one is supposed to drink alcohol or to show up in a group. Only very few cafes in America do really have the qualities of a relaxed, informal place where a single person can spent a long time doing what ever she or he likes, including reading, writing and communicating. Are these the true third places(5), as Ray Oldenburg calls it? Oldenburgs Third Place Departing from an analysis of America as high mobility society(6) with its increased need for integrating places Ray Oldenburg provides a model of what he calls the third place which is a public gathering area. The first place is home and the second is the working place. The division between the two is a consequence of industrialization. Especially in America where there is a lack of public spaces because of mislead urban development there is the need for third places most often substituted with gastronomic places. He calls them Homes away from home where unrelated people relate.(7) The high mobility society contains both a high percentage of people moving their homes frequently and an environment that is hostile to both walking and talking. In walking people become part of their terrain, they meet others...in talking people get to know one another, they find and create their common interest.(8) According to Oldenburg a cafe may not have a central issue except the communication of the patrons. Oldenburgs model will be discussed later and used as approach to analyze the function of components of cybercafes, food and computers. My thesis is that there is a crisis for cybercafes in a computerized world only if the computers are too central. There is enough places to get computer services provided (Kinkos etc.). And the fascination of the hipness of the Internet is fading away since its becoming a standard means of communication. Its the extra, the plus, that makes a cafe attractive, the playfulness with and surrounding the computers. Playing with the Playfulness Zygmund Bauman offers a very condensed model for postmodern identities, which I would like to use for the cafes, their owners and their customers. If the modern problem of identity was how to construct an identity and keep it solid and stable, the postmodern problem of identity is primarily how to avoid fixation and keep the options open.... the catchword of modernity was creation, the catchword of postmodernity is recycling. (9) This is perfectly true for cybercafes as well. Featuring a post-modern media did not make them postmodern places per se. The concept of computers as the single main attraction staged the internet in a modern way. The places founded around 1995 and having a computer-lingo name, created their identity with the aura of new interactive telecommunication and, at least speaking about the US, joined the great cafe-renaissance and coffee-culture. This is why the lament and bankruptcy is only concerning modern cybercafes - but not hybrid places offering cybercafe-qualities and more. This is why there are more and more places indeed offer cyber-stations, or so called cyberbooth (10). Many clubs, for example the Void or the Knitting Factory are on-line all the time, offering free e-mail access or internet-use. The idea of the permanent presence of computers in gastronomic spaces has not faded away. Only the limitation of computers as the only attraction has led to some cafes end. Cybercafes work best, according to my thesis, by being postmodern in their structure and their existence, because then they meet most precisely their customers characteristics. According to Bauman the four characteristics of postmodern existence are the stroller, the vagabond, the tourist and the player. All the venues I studied were in areas of the city where people are flaneurs / strollers with their perception described by Bauman (11), inspired by Benjamin and modernized with Henning Bechs telicity concept (12): everything becomes surface, the stroller is not committed to anything. The same is true for the internet-surfer. All cafes had a high and still increasing percentage of tourists as customers. The tourist is a conscious seeker of experience...of difference and novelty, but the strange is tame, domesticated and no longer frightens. What does a cybercafe do to provide the tourist, that is tamed (13), experience of the cyber-world (The answer is: offering food, see below)? Two kinds of traveling merge in a cybercafe, the journey to New York and the one to cyberspace. Speaking more practically the tourists attraction by cybercafes may be explained with the growing dependency on e-mail communication and more and more tourists need to check the mail on vacation (14). Most obvious computers offer games and the internet offers playful research - so we can assert the player-quality in conjunction with cybercafes. And, to top it all, my main interview with Arthur Perley revealed the owner of a cybercafe to be playing with his own life and his Internet Cafe alike. My second approach to the lasting fascination of cybercafes is a discourse I cannot prove with my field work. I will explain why. Nevertheless it seems to be proved by the strategy in the Internet Cafes construction of a self on the Internet, which I will discuss later. The discourse of the grotesque in the following section is both an example and an indicator for the above asserted discourse of playfulness. I will link the two discourses in the final section. Whats Grotesque About Cybercafes? What ever kind of places cybercafes are, they are actual, physical places, being at the threshold of cyberspace. Does the hypermobility of cyberspace interfere with being at a real place? As Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett writes in Spaces of Dispersal: ...hypermobility not only divides and disperses people and activities that once occupied a contiguous space..., but also collapses spaces of dispersal abbreviating the time that it takes to get from here to there.(15) This can be true for two main sorts of customers of cybercafes, tourists and web-surfers alike. It can mean convenience and terror. How do customers in a cybercafe experience this? What could be possible strategies against the anxiety of hypermobile times? In Bakhtins model of the grotesque humor within his paradigm of carnival ambivalence he renders food a central role and subversive character. Eating and drinking are one of the most significant manifestations of the grotesque body. The distinctive character of this body is its open unfinished nature, its interaction with the world.(16) Though describing circumstances of medieval banquets he formulates phenomena which are useful for positioning our (post-)modern body as well. What if we read interactive telecommunication and the international Internet as a representation of the world if not as another world, the cyberspace, which we interact with as a whole while we are browsing? ...the body transgresses here its own limits: it swallows, devours, rends the world apart, is enriched and grows art the worlds expense. ... Here man tastes the world, introduces it into his body, makes it part of himself.(17) By surfing the net we become part of this. There is a lot written on the fascination of the liminal experience of cyberspace, mostly praising it enthusiastically like Timothy Leary (LSD for the nineties(18)) or as flow (Mihaly Csikszentmihaly (19)). In these approaches it is taken for granted, that the paradox of high-speed traveling without physical movement is only causing pleasure. Why isnt it causing discomfort as well? I would like to argue that there are strategies against this, because hypermobility can cause fear as well. Why arent both the world of computer technology and cyberspace equaling with what Bakhtin calls the official seriousness? It depends on very individual practices how one encounters the cyber-world. ...Mans encounter with the world in the act of eating is joyful, triumphant; he triumphs over the world , devours it without being devoured himself. The limits between man and the world are erased, to mans advantage.(20) Maybe we do get lost, devoured by the electronic world. Maybe we dont. Within the ritual of internet encounter one can place David Tomas idea of the postorganic. The unbodilyness indeed is the key to both fascination and fear of cyberspace-encounter. We cannot devour the cyberspace as we can the world according to Bakhtin. Isnt it possible instead to undermine the postorganic structure of that encounter by the other encounter with the real world? Following Bakhtin we triumph over the world by devouring it. What impact has this triumph over a simultaneous encounter? While eating we perceive ourselves in our bodily existence. What impact does this have on our flow into / in cyberspace? Irving, chef of the Mega-Bite cafe, tells me, that people sometimes forget about their food. Speaking in terms of Bauman food touristifies cyberspace: In the tourists world the strange is tame, domesticated and no longer frightens. The tourist has a home as part of the safety package(21). In this case the cafe is the home, and food is a constant reminder to the body of that home. I dare drawing too many consequences from the potential of grotesque subversion of the postorganic cyberworld by eating. It would take a year-long observation, survey and psychology to gain non-speculative enlightenment. Nevertheless, the interference between two kinds of worlds and two kinds of experiences allow us another perspective on the potential of a cybercafe. Theoretically one can eat and compute at home or at work as well. What difference would a cybercafe make? Here it is not a taboo - as it is in computer-labs and many offices, but the norm to eat and drink while being at a computer. The structure of the place encourages us to do what we might do at home - but not necessarily do. The discourse of the grotesque exemplifies playfulness. The optionality of the grotesque experience indicates a playful multi-focality. The terror of an official seriousness, represented by cyberspace or computing in general, can be playfully undermined. This form of subversion is optional, it depends on the attitude of the user and the character of the place. The existence of a grotesque food-computer relationship indicates the playfulness of a cybercafe. This will be proved with the Mega-Bites actual practice and the Internet Cafes virtual double. Three Sites, Two Approaches I. Virtual Cafes - the Construction of Identity on the Internet An analysis of a cybercafe should not only take into consideration the interior architecture, the menu, the corporate design, the staff and other aspects of the venue itself, but the cafes self- presentation on the net. For all cybercafes it is crucial to be not only present, but presented professionally on the net. Their web-sites offer interesting aspects about their concept, explain their aim and allow interesting conclusions. The virtual cafe has a very peculiar relationship to the actual cafe. Both depend on each other. The credibility and professionality of the cybercafe gets measured by its on-line representation. If a place offering access to the Internet, assists in creating webpages for customers, then it has to prove its competence in its self-presentation. The home-page of a cafe is at home as the homepage of your screen before you start to surf or to interact with cyberspace. So the home-page can be seen both before one actually has gone to the actual cafe or when starting to surf the web in a cybercafe. Since my focus is the interdependence of the different aspects of a cybercafe, food in particular, I regard it as very significant to see the role of food on the web-page (since Mega-Bite closed, unfortunately the web-page did as well. Web pages life is in the presence...There is no archive for web-pages.). The purpose of advertisement is obvious, but hard to measure in its success. The advertisement target two groups, patrons to the cafe and potential business partners, either hiring the place (especially in the case of the Cybercafe, see the preceding chapter) or getting a web-page or other internet-services. The groups have very varying knowledge about computing technology. So the main paradox both analyzed pages have to deal with is being professional as well as accessible. Different from other forms of advertisements web-pages serve not only to target the (potential or actual) customer. There is two characteristics unique to web-presence: First, the setting up of a homepage follows the logic of it has to exist, that is negative advertisement: the lack of an www-adress is obnoxious to a modern business. The existence of a web-address is more important than the actual content. And the design and technical quality of a page are more important than the verbal content. Secondly, creating a homepage equals creating a self, constructing an identity. That is relevant for the one who is creating it as much or even more than for the reader/web-surfer. This resembles what I argue in my paper Assyrians in Cyberspace(24): Diasporic performance on the Internet is most likely to be for the dispersed rather than for the imagined reader or readers in the home country who often have no Internet-access. Webpages create the corporate identity, the concept of a self of a company, or rather what the owner of a company wants the company to be like - to build identity, to get self-esteem, to motivate employees. This is why I regard the analysis of web-pages to be so fruitful. Its telling a lot about both what a thing is and what it ideally - according to the owner - should be like. With this and the food-focus in mind we can get started. II. Problematic Fieldwork After having approached a cybercafe via the Internet we should have a close look at the actual cafe. Both of my main sites I visited about 5 times each at different times of the day. According to Gregory, waiter at the Cybercafe, another crucial factor of why people go or dont go to the Cybercafe is the weather. He explained that this does not depend on a day to day basis but on the sequence of several days (e.g. if there is several days with rain and suddenly there is a sunny morning, people come in masses. If there is several nice weather days people rather hesitate...). Another aspect of how many customers come and what kind of customers come is next to the day of the week (weekdays / weekend days) the season (for tourists) and holidays. Strictly seen it was impossible to cover all variations and to draw too many conclusions from that. It turned out to be almost impossible to interview customers at computers, because they are paying money for their time. And everybody was leaving immediately after using the computer. Especially at the Cybercafe people performed business, being stressed out - apparently as a sign of their professionality. Secondly I often felt supervised by the owners or managers of the cafes who I did not want to annoy. So most of my interviews are with employers and employees. 1) The Cybercafe An ubiquous logo and an empty space (http://www.cyber-cafe.com/) The Cybercafes web-design is very stylish. Before we even open it we are get two options offered: Decaffeinated or Caffeinated, meaning graphically advanced or not. Both versions are well designed, having the logo of the cafe central. There is a corporate design given that is very stylish, silver-white-dark blue. Its technoid without contradicting the notions of contemporary design. The logo is representing the corporate identity. It is showing the world Cybercafe with a circle around the cafe and two lines leading out of the circle. There is different ways of understanding this. This could be an ashtray with a cigarette or a cup of coffee from above, or it is a mouse with cable. The logo is in silver with reflections on the ring. The circle frames the cafe, the cafe is surrounded, protected - different from the outside area where there is cyber. Cyber(-space) is infinite. And the cafe is the only fixed point we have, our home, our base, our point of departure. The logo is on all four windows (that is two sides of the cubic room of the cafe and on one wall in huge letters, about 1,5 m wide. So the logo accompanies us from the virtual to the actual cafe and the other way round. You cant miss it. Its more present than the Star-Spangled Banner in the USA. Visiting the homepage we are welcomed by the caffeine metaphor. Caffeine is the drug associated with a coffeehouse, it is the stimulant we expect from both internet and coffee. The metaphor is illustrated with a photograph of coffeebeans. The actual web-site welcomes us with a film-noir shot on the interior of the cafe - without food. Only one in ten sub-menus is a real menu (not a link to computer or service related sub-sites). Its almost at the bottom of the list, between Cyber-classes and Our Technology. The categories of the menu are sandwiches, salads and soups, pastries and beverages. The food is described very technically and not advertised. Its a very unappealing list. Every category is introduced with a faded photography of a related item (paprika for the salads etc.). Summarizing it is to state that food plays a minor role in the self-representation of the Cybercafe. Apparently it is not an important issue to the promotion of the place. Central are technology and design. In the self-description there is an illustration showing a logo of a cup as a window showing a highway to the sunset at the horizon. Its the information superhighway (25), seen through a symbol for a cup, not an image of a cup, transcending it. Food is de-centralized, technizised and made post-organic. See and Be Seen - The Strategy of the Cybercafe To contextualize cybercafes into the history of cafes its worth reading Hattox on the coffeehouses, upcoming in the sixteenth-century: One went to the coffeehouse not merely because one wished to drink coffee. One went to the coffeehouse to go out, to spend the evening in the society of his fellows, to be entertained, to see and to be seen.(22) Even from its very beginning the variety of services and pleasures is polymorphous. Coffee is rather the occasion or decoration than the central issue. This explains why the same word became symbol for something bigger - the venue itself (coffee - cafe). The same can be said about a postmodern cybercafe. The computer is providing a name, an aura, a feeling, an atmosphere - or in the lingo of marketing: an image. That is what gets sold to the customer - and even more obvious - to customers renting the whole space in case of the Cybercafe. They make probably most of their money neither with computer fees and selling food, but with subletting the whole place to customers from the computer industry, banks, media and education. The list of companies who rented the Cybercafe is impressive, including America Online, American Express, Colombia University (not even in the neighborhood!), Microsoft, MTV and the TV Food Network (Ha!). Apparently the philosophy sells: Cybercafe offers the most cutting edge location for events. Show your clients that your company is ready for the technologies tomorrow.(23) They advertise with their interesting avant-garde location, where they suggest product launches with We have the hardware to make your product shine and media events, again providing the technology and experience with it. Again visibility is central. The simultaneity of seeing and been seen stated above concerning the 16th century is transformed to a higher level. Neither food nor computers are important. Computers are the guaranty for technical up-to-dateness - and embedded in the world of media: Cybercafe promotes itself as location for media events...and as backdrop for film and television.(web-page). The industry of viewing merges with the place of to see and be seen. According to Evan Gailbreath, manager, the cafe caters food - comprehensive dinners - for banquets, while people go to the terminals to use the Internet etc. Unfortunately I could not witness such an event in the period of my research. Anyway: The Cybercafe transforms the concept of a cybercafe - away from a cafe for a guest, but for another host. They sell the image to a higher level and a higher price. The transformation of a cybercafe can happen because its high semiotic load which is avoiding food and computers as central. The Cybercafe - An Actual Visit As second cybercafe in New York the Cybercafe, opened in Summer 1995, conceptualized by Robert Angeleone, it is run by Steve Acosta and Evan Galbraith. The latter is now corporate director. I talked to him several times informally, but we were not able to get together to an interview due to his dense schedule, according to him. The cafe is on Lafayette Street and -often used in the self-description - in SoHo. It is close to the museums on Broadway (African Art, Guggenheim SoHo and newmuseum) and the tourists pedestrian highway to Little Italy and Chinatown. The interior is extravagant, there are silver chairs and village-style ceramic-mosaic tables. The ceiling is high, the columns are 19th century. The dominant colors are dark blue. The logo of the cafe (see above) is on the windows and the wall. The eight terminals are either at the windows or around the central column. There is a sharp distinction between the computer-service and the food-area. The computer-bar is not only to order access to a computer, but to purchase hardware, software and merchandising with the cybercafe logo on (base-caps, T-shirts etc.). The food-bar is hiding the kitchen-area. The waiters are wearing black T-shirts with the cafes logo on. According to Even Galbraith they hire people who are either experienced with the food-part or the computer-part(29). Then they train them in the other. My waiter served me with the adorable care and concentration of a child pouring wine into fathers wine-glass for the first time. Gregory is Lithuanian immigrant and computer fanatic, his gastronomic experience is very fresh. Whenever I came there the cafe was exclusively used by computer users. They never had more than a drink, although there is a variety of sandwiches, salads and deserts on the menu. Most of them came on their own. Their communication with the service personnel was very brief, most of them knew how to operate their computer. The two main groups I would identify were tourists (mostly couples with guide-books) and a typical SoHo-crowd of alternative Yuppies. These very fashionably dressed people would demonstrate a web-page to a business-partner or print a fancy color print. The average visit is exactly 30 minutes long which is minimum access-time one can purchase. The coolness of the visitors resembled the design of the place and the image of the cafe expressed on the webpage. The threshold to computer-technology might theoretically be lowered by an experienced staff, but I rarely witnessed customers who were not belonging to the two main groups. I strongly believe that the place is intimidating many people for the reasons others are attracted by it. There is a huge emphasis on computer technology. The Cybercafe organizes classes (distancing the help from normal cafe-hours and commodifying it), sells soft- and hardware and is proud of the newest technology (30). So I like to argue that food and the idea of a cafe are merely more than decorations to camouflage the coldness of technology. So the self-description given on the web is rather an Utopia than anything else: Pass your time with a purpose, make new friends, exchange ideas and pioneer the future. Join us at Cybercafe and take a trip into tomorrow.(31) Except for the first imperative, which I witnessed to excess, this is wishful thinking. The customer gets the opportunity to stage him/herself in the brightness and transparency of the space. In that they are not different at all from the 16th century patrons described by Hattox. The place sells an image of coolness to the customer which is not depending on pure technology but the combination of design and the mythical notion of cyber-space. The pure technology as provided in offices and computer-stores would be too ordinary for the stylish SoHo customer. I am convinced that what certain customers actually buy is the chance to perform themselves as contemporary and cool. Thats another reason they dont eat, because eating would be too vulgar, too uncool, too bodily. Summarizing one can describe the strategy of the place as camouflaging the coldness of computers with the coolness of design to serve a performance-need for a prestige-minded target-group. That makes the place a theater and minimizes the role of food to stage-design. Taking into consideration my analysis of the Cybercafes strategy (in the section Seen and to be seen) the theatricality of coolness makes sense on all levels. It is the same image that individual users aspire and perform and that companies rent for their events. The marginalization of food both in the architecture of the place and on the web indicates the fear of the grotesque character of food which would contradict the coolness-paradigm. The absence of food proves the legitimacy of my discourse. In the Cybercafe the playfulness of the unbodily theatricality replaces the playfulness of the food-computer relationship of the Mega-Bite. 2) Mega-Bite On West 45th Street there is a place called The Original Boychicks. It is fast-food restaurant serving pizza, sushi, salads and middle eastern specialties. The combination is far above average. What makes the place special is that it is the only 100% kosher place offering this variety. But what used to make the place really special was the fact that exactly the same place used to be a cybercafe, or more appropriate, a cyber-restaurant. Unfortunately (for my research) in January 1998 the owner changed from Eli Zarifa, who cooperated with Howard Jonas IDT (International Direct Communication, the neighboring computer company and internet-provider) to a private owner after eighteen months of successful business. The new owner skipped the cyber-aspect for several reasons. According to Irving, the old and new chef, the new owner is not in favor of computers and has got no experience with them. In addition to that the actual profit was not worth the expenses of software-rights and internet-access which were covered by the old owner, IDT. It would be interesting for further research to find out more about why a telecommunication company decided to open a cybercafe. Howard Jonas claims that it was founded because of the lack and need of such a place (26). I rather suppose that the enterprise had the quality / notion of a playful experiment. Irving, introduced by his colleagues as This is Mega-Bite told me everything about the cyber-restaraunt he used to run, because he still is very committed to the idea of cybercafes. His nostalgia made it hard to tell how successful the place really was. Now having 99% Jewish customers mostly at the peak hours at noon and around 6:00 pm, the place had a more diverse crowd at all times of the day. Many school classes came over to experience computers in a more relaxed surrounding and many tourists, especially from neighboring hostels, checked their e-mail. Different from all other places I know of (internationally) Mega-Bite charged not necessarily the time the customer was computing. Access to one of the 8 terminals (!) was free for half an hour with the purchase of food for 5$. This meant that everybody who was computing was also eating and drinking. This cyber-restaurant would have been close to the grotesque concept I developed before. Irving used to observe carefully the eating habits of the users and is very eloquent about it. He is very emotional about the loss of the computers-part: My opinion: I would keep it. It was the salt in the pot. It had historical value. It was the only place like this in the entire world. And you were part in it...I used to be a school teacher; I appreciate historical value.(27) Still he is aware of the problems the place had to face. The cafe had no one hired to advice people. There was no trained service personnel to help the customers. So many of them were frustrated. Many of the customers were depending on help since they didnt have their own computer. Irving would have had the knowledge, but he was too busy as chef. A rather technical problem was the very frequent defect of hardware due to crumbs and drops of the masses of food consumed in front of the computers. The most interesting analogy of food and computers in this place was that BOTH were kosher. The access to web-pages was coded and blocked. The religious supervisor Rabbi Weberman explained the Mega-Bite policy: "We don't allow anything on the Internet that doesn't go according to Torah. ... Just like the food has to be clean, the Internet has to be clean too. You have a clean body and a clean mind."(28) It would be very speculative to suppose this to be limiting or increasing the number of customers. The extension of kosherness to the internet is definitely rather a symbolical act to emphasize the feeling of home for religious Jewish customers. The place was limiting the playfulness of ordinary cybercafes by having a ruled environment with the character of enforcement. The customer had to order food, it was ruled food and the computer did not allow free surfing neither. At the same time it allowed a maximum of freedom of people who would have to be cautious of their activities in a non-kosher environment. The Mega Bite cafe is the closest to the grotesque, not because it had a name playing with words and the analogy of food and computers, but it had a structural link between the two by almost enforcing people to consume food at the computer. The notion of the grotesque is strongly associated with playfulness which overshadows the rigor of the kosherness. 3) The Internet Cafe Surf And Ye Shalt Find Food! (http://www.bigmagic.com) The Internet Cafe follows a completely different strategy. The logo appears in full basic colors, rather two-dimensional design. There is no coherent logo, sometimes the name of the cafe is surrounded by a red oval. All sub-pages are introduced with a logo that is a comic-drawing. The child-book like appearance create intimacy and familiarity. Everything is easy and accessible. The majority of sub-pages / icons are food related (!). Four out of seven drawings show edible items. We got Cakes, Drinks, Coffee, Access, Creative, Cool and Sandwiches. There are no technical terms involved. The text provided is relatively confusing and out of order. There are quotations and mottoes all over the place. Surf and Ye Shall Find is even trade-marked. In the self description there is an emphasis on the expert assistance in a warm and relaxed setting, the best and freshest coffee in New York, the music played and the games offered . Quite openly they declare: We designed the Cafe to welcome the user to the Internet and to be an antitode to the sterile, intimidating environments that people often associate with new technology. Like the Cybercafe or Kinkos. And its open to total computer beginners, who dont even get bored, because there are checkers etc. The computer-aspect gets marginalized by food, music and games. The menu is the biggest part of the site, the sandwiches are listed in a table with the name of the sandwich, a detailed description and the price. The names are terms of the computer-lingo, from hypertext (fresh mozzarella, basil & sun-dried tomatoes with greens, dijon mustard & internet vinaigrette, whatever that is), yahoo (goat cheese...), to on-line art (Roquefort, sweet butter & baguette with wedges of sliced ripe pear) and many others. This is thematizing the serious, the technical. They literally make the computer-world digestible, accessible, devourable. According to the grotesque logic of Bakhtin one can internalize net basics (our own mix of red & green lettuces...) - the otherwise hostile world. Its fun-making - with the serious aim of lowering the threshold of new technology and the Internet Cafe. Although the main targeting group seems to be beginners I would strongly doubt this in case of the web-page which exclusively is read by Internet-surfers - who have done the first step. Its rather the fun of simplifying the complicated or re-designing the image of a hostile world. The Internet Cafe offers a home to the web-traveler, in both worlds and senses - in a virtual cafe and an actual one. The home-page is emphasizing the cafe-aspect rather than selling an abstract image of coolness. Though it is promoting familiarity and simplicity, it is done in direct relation to the actual cafe. Food is the central element in this strategy. There is no visual or textual representation of the music, the program or the games. Food in this context represents anti-expertise, egalite and simple pleasure. The Internet Cafe in Real Life Almost hidden on East 3rd Street between First and Second Avenue there is the smallest venue I did my fieldwork on. Its a long and narrow tube in the basement. The tables are organized along the wall, one aisle is leading from street to the bar in the rear and to the back yard. The ceiling is low and the lamps are dimmed down with paper covering them. The walls are in brown and dark green. The furniture is not uniform, some chairs could have been found on street. There is only four computers - so most tables dont have computers. There are two shelves at the wall with magazines, newspapers and lots of books, both fiction and computer literature. In one shelf there are several board games and playing cards. In the bar area there is a TV hanging underneath the ceiling. It was on whenever I went there. The bar area has no relationship to computer-technology, but there is a professional sound-system. Visually it is the total opposite to the Cybercafe. It rather looks like a bar, with some computers. The computers are the only new-looking objects in a rather unspectacular or almost trashy space. Arthur Perley opened the cafe as the first cybercafe in Spring 1995. He is very open and eloquent about his place. When he first opened the place he hardly served food, but customers demanded that and so he started with a huge variety of sandwiches and salads. He would love to be able to offer more, but there is no space for a kitchen. During the history of the place the customers changed. This is related to both the changed strategy and the increased computerization of the customers. Still there is a significant group of people from the neighborhood and friends being frequent and stable customers. During my visit I could observe some elder people who came for a beer and a chat with the bar-tender. They didnt look like they would ever touch a computer and indeed, they didnt. In the early phase, says Perley, most customers came to learn about and to experience the Internet.. Now its still 2/3 of the day-time customers coming to compute or accompanying computing friends. At night its only 1/8 who are at the computers. This is one of the reasons Perley increased the evening program to a daily standard. Every night there is either a jazz-concert, a reading or a screening. This and the beer license (they are serving 12 different beers!) were the major changes in the history of the place. In the beginning the place was more like a computer-school, but now this happens less often. Still there are customers who are new to computers or the Internet. I am a guide to the internet(Perley), rather than to computers. Once people now how to browse they need assistance where to surf. We promise hand holding for free. Apparently the didactic trick is sense of humor even in describing the service of teaching and helping people. When asked about the Cybercafe Perley is trying to be neutral, emphasizing how different they are. Its a Starbucks with computers. For his place balance is important: The place is not about computers, but to be. We are a cafe - not a computer store... We got games, newspapers, magazines, books... Computers are not the point - people read, write, eat - all these activities they can do with and without a computer.(32) Computers simply provide a mirror-image of whats done in a classic third place anyway. Later Perley describes computers as necessity: Why shouldnt customers expect internet-access like a payphone? Its a service we provide, because people do it (using a computer). We were ahead of it, but it got normal now.(32) The cafe has a backyard which he calls our tech-free zone. This indicates the computer-critical attitude in the cafes concept. There has been a shift from the hipness and the avant-garde to the normal, which is not admitted at the Cybercafe. The Internet Cafe substitutes the hipness and the hype with relaxed, unspectacular normality of computers. The spectacular is shifted to the stage and the screen, having events in the evenings. Perley loves talking about the jazz-part of his cafe, which is rooted in his personal interest in jazz. He is proud, that the place got a name in the avant-garde-jazz scene, so that he gets demo-tapes every day. He admits that he sometimes looses money with the concerts. But the joy he gets is worth him the effort. His aim is to link the program more with the internet, to become a virtual cafe more and more. Ideally he can convey the concerts on the internet as well. This project is still in the developing phase. He is already advising others with video-conferencing technology. Next to the virtual cafe he is planning to open another, bigger place with a kitchen. Arthur Perley has a very interesting background. He is trained as an actor (!) and photographer, but worked most of his life as computer counselor for banks and insurance. He is still doing that. In addition he is teacher at Infotech / NYU, where he teaches internet technology. He wrote the Kids guide to the internet and is available on video-lectures on the topic. Recently he does more and more counseling for radio and television to get their web-sites set up. The Internet Cafe provides web-sites for many companies and organisations, mainly in the East Village. By talking to all different types of customer, the ordinary users in the cafe, the neighborhood organizations and the companies he is counseling for he gains a huge knowledge about the man-computer-interface and how human beings and net-works interact. He is aware of the fact that he uses his theater-training as a teacher. I like to add that the close observing of the customers can be rooted in the theater background as well. He is conscious about the opportunity to study his customers. He is very eloquent about the playful character he is and his place has got because of that: I am really enjoying this. The cafe will never make me rich - its paying itself... This place is like a playground or a sandbox for me. I want to experiment with the place anyway.(32) Though he is modest about the economic success of his concept for the sake of the cafe itself it seems to be a well working concept in the wider logic of the owners multi-focal professional life. The striking part to me is that personal interest and professional life inspire each other, merge to a fusion which is appreciated by everybody. The cafe is meeting point and office for Perleys other jobs as well as it is experiment and living room for him. If the place would look more technological or if computers would play a more important role, I would suppose that the food-presence in the cafe would be as strong as it is in the virtual cafe. Since the room has not a strong presence of technology anyway there is no need to emphasize the food-aspect either. The personal focus of Perley explains the anti-elitist and low-threshold philosophy of the Internet Cafe. The values of balance and relaxation are not only formally present in the virtual version of the cafe and represented by the interior design (or rather the lack of it) of the place, but lived by the owner as well. Thus the place is playful in all respects, and as part of that food is engaged playfully in the menue and on the web. Conclusion Towards a Fourth Place In The Great Good Place Ray Oldenburg is not modeling an ideal but an Utopia. The more he adds up characteristics of third places the less likely they are to exist. Though they allow all kinds of activity Oldenburg ranks these activity in their appropriateness to the concept. So third places may serve as political or intellectual forum, and they even may be work places. He does mention a range of different activities performed at third places, but he strongly emphasizes: If conversation is not just the main attraction but the sine qua non of the third place, it must be better there and, indeed it is.(33) With this logic the idealistic proclamation becomes a measurement of quality. Places, cafes etc., become evaluated as much as the other activities at these places. This leads Oldenburg to an interesting trick, when he describes the important issue of playing and games, even dividing games into good and bad concerning their influence on the golden calf conversation: As there are agencies and activities that interfere with conversation, so there are those that aid and encourage it. Third places incorporate these activities and may even emerge around them. To be more precise, conversation is a game that mixes well with many other games according to the manner in which they are played.(34)... The game is conversation and the third place is its home court.(35) If cybercafes are about individuals mute to other customers but very communicative to friends and strangers alike in IRCs or via e-mail - is conversation their main purpose to visit a cybercafe? How many conversations are caused by the attraction of computers? How many are suppressed by them? The lure of a third place depends only secondary upon seating, ...variety of beverages...other features. What attracts the regular visitor to a third place is supplied not by the management but by the fellow customers. The third place is just as much space unless the right people are there to make it come alive.(36) Computers and food belong to these other features, I guess. According to Oldenburgs rigid model cybercafes may only be called third places when computers - or food - stimulate more conversation than they prevent. And people shouldnt come there because of them but the talk around them. I disagree with the rigor of his model because it limits the playfulness of third places. The absoluteness of these places is in no relation with the informality which I see as a much more intriguing quality. Exactly the playfulness of the whole place and the chance to emerge conversations is what makes it different from other places. The potential is what makes it potent. To say it with the Bauman definition used above, postmodernity is against fixation of identity (37). The model Oldenburg is describing is very clear and hierachial - and fixating, therefore limiting. His approach to conversation-enforcement places is modern, not postmodern. Ironically he could be used against himself when he writes : The persistent mood of third places is a playful one....The magic of playground is seductive... (quoting Huizinga) Because the feeling of being apart together in an exceptional situation ...rejecting the usual norms, retains its magic beyond the duration of the individual game.(38) He uses Huizingas concept of playfulness exclusively for the actual play of games or the - according to his standards - superior game of conversation. He does not understand the choice of different activities as a more important play. This meta-game of playing with the different services and identities of a multi-focal cafe like cybercafes is what I consider to be central. I totally agree with the concept of the magic of the playground(39), but I refuse from limiting this to the quality of single activities within themselves but like to extend it to the play between the different activities. Caillois is broadening Huizingas concept of the function of play as a contest for something or a representation of something (40) when defining play as...essentially free...and uncertain: the course of which cannot be determined,...and some latitude for innovations being left to the players initiative(41). In his classification of four different categories two of them are according to Huizingas concept, agon (contest) and mimicry (representation). More attention should be paid to his fourth category: ilinx. Ilinx is Greek for vertigo. It consists of an attempt to momentarily destroy the stability of perception...The disturbance that provokes vertigo is commonly sought for its own sake.(42) It is exactly the vertigo of cyberspace and the potential information over-load of cybercafes that attract its customers. It is the playing with perception for its own sake. There is no rules any more. The fourth category of games sounds like a prophecy of Bunjee-jumping and net-surfing. And it perfectly allows me to call the Internet Cafe a play in itself, which is made out of classic games, boardgames, conversation as a game, computer games, playfully named food and a variety of activities. The too-much of potential activities can disturb the perception - which is a play with its own sake. Due to their modern fascination with construction of identity mono-culture-cybercafes have a fatal deficit of this kind of playfulness. They are the ones described in the recent NY Times article and they are the bankrupt ones. I am on the opinion that the lack of this kind of playfulness at the Cybercafe is substituted at least by an aesthetic play of coolness allowing the customer to play theater - rather than to play with different activities. The Internet Cafe is both a perfect third place in terms of Oldenburg, since it does allow a lot of conversation and a lot of conversation is caused by the presence of computers. A lot of conversations were about computers, but not necessarily. And people go there to communicate with their neighbors - independent from the computer aspect of the cafe. In addition to that it is more than an Oldenburg-place, since it offers the play of choice of activities for the visitors. The foremost quality of a playground in the literal sense is that kids may choose the play; they play with choices. The Internet Cafe expands the model of play from the user / customer to the place itself. Arthur Perley is a player in and with his cafe, conceptually and on a daily base. The opportunity to play is inscribed in the structure of the place - guaranteed by the playfulness of the owner. The role of food and how it is strategically involved on the cafes web-page is an obvious example for his playfulness. Striking about role of playfulness in the concept of the cafe is its ambivalence. The playful treatment of food is both strategically employed and fun for funs sake. For Bauman In the confrontation between the player and the world there are neither laws nor lawlessness, neither order nor chaos.(43) (remember: the player is one of his models for post-modern existence). Unfortunately he contradicts himself when he explains the character of play linked with risk and the fascination of intuitive reach for luck(43). This is another limiting concept, implying rules on another level. If the player was really beyond order and chaos, he would not depend on the aim of reaching luck. Since I perceive the fascination of play exactly in the opportunity for risk, luck and fun as much as in their lack. This is close to Cailloiss vertigo. The player at the cybercafe is playing not to win a game but to find a playful way of satisfying his perception. And so is the owner-as-a-player: his play is not primarily to win money or customers but a problematic - since playful - combination of experience and joy. Since there is no category given for places like the Internet Cafe I like to call it a fourth place. Fourth places are playgrounds allowing playfulness in terms of choice of the desired activity. This can be valid for both, customer and owner. The activities of fourth places are not limited to the rules evoked by categories of the former three places. So they can include the qualities of home, work, public space, conversation, game-playing and interactive tele-communication. The predominant concept of the place is the permission of as many different activities and services as possible while at the same time a maximum imposing a maximal limit of single central features. Fourth places can be called post-modern cafes. They are embracing new technology as much as cafe-classics like food and beverages - without ranking their importance.. The discourse of the grotesque in the relationship between the components food and computers can indicate playfulness. Since the character of this discourse is its optionality, it cannot serve as defining element. Although two of the studied venues (Mega-Bite and Internet-Cafe) proved the feasibility of staging food as part of the grotesque discourse, the effect must not be enforced, because this would contradict the ambivalence and playfulness of a fourth place. New York, April 1998 Notes (1) Arthur Perley, personal interview, 17.4.1998 (2) www.cyber-cafe.com (3) Michail Bakhtin in The Bachtin Reader edited by Yam Morris, Arnold Publishers 1994 (4) Michel Marrott Ballad of the Cybercafe: Crossover Hit Abroad, NY Times, 4/16th 1998 (5) Ray Oldenburg The Great Good Place - Cafes, coffee shops, community centers, beauty parlors, general stores, bars, hangouts and how they get you through the day, New York 89/97 (6) Oldenburg, p.XVIII (7) Oldenburg, p.IX (8) Oldenburg, p.XIV (9) Zygmunt Bauman in From Pilgrim to Tourist in Questions of Cultural Identity, edited by Stuart Hall and Paul Du Gay, London 1996, p.18 (10) Jane Levere in Cyberbooths Offer E-Mail for Travelers in New York Times, 6..6.1996 (11) Bauman, p.27 (12) Henning Bech in Living together in the (post)modern world, paper given at the European Conferece of Sociology, Vienna in 1992 (13) Bauman, p.29 (14) Marrott (15) Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett in Spaces of Dispersal in Cultural Anthropology 9 (3) (16) Bakhtin, p.228 1994 (17) Bakhtin, p.228 (18) Timothy Leary http://www.leary.com 1996 (19) Mihail Csikszentmihaly Beyond Boredom and Anxiety, San Francisco, 1975 (20) Bakhtin, p.228 (21) Bauman, p.30 (22) Ralph Hattox, Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origin of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East, Seattle 1985 (23) www.cyber-cafe.com (24) Max Schumacher in Assyrians in Cyberspace - diaspora on the internet, paper for May Josephs class Postmodern Theory and Theater, New York University, Fall term 1997 (25) Wolfgang Welsch in Information Super highway, 1994 in http://www.uni-magdeburg.de/~iphi/ww/papers/highway.htm (26) in Pamela Mendels Where Food and Surfing Are Kosher, New York Times, 11.8.1997 (27) personal interview, 5.4.1998 (28) Mendels (29) personal interview, 28.3.1998 (30) www.cyber-cafe.com (31) www.cyber-cafe.com (32) personal interview, 17.4.1998 (33) Oldenburg, p.28 (34) Oldenburg, p.30 (35) Oldenburg, p.31 (36) Oldenburg, p.33 (37) Bauman, p.19 (38) Johan Huizinga in Homo Ludens: A Study of Play Elements in Culture, Boston 1950 (39) Oldenburg, p.38 (40) Huizinga, p.13 (41) Roger Caillois in Man, Play, Games, Free Press of Glencoe 1961, p.9 (42) Caillois, p.23 (43) Bauman, p.31 Bibliography www.cyber-cafe.com Bakhtin, Michail The Bakhtin Reader edited by Pam Morris, Arnold Publishers 1994 Bauman, Zygmunt From Pilgrim to Tourist in Questions of Cultural Identity, edited by Stuart Hall and Paul Du Gay, London 1996, p.18 Bech, Henning Living together in the (post)modern world, paper given at the European Conferece of Sociology, Vienna in 1992 Caillois, Roger Man, Play, Games, Free Press of Glencoe 1961 Csikszentmihaly, Mihail Beyond Boredom and Anxiety, San Francisco, 1975 Hattox, Ralph Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origin of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East, Seattle 1985 Huizinga, Johan Homo Ludens: A Study of Play Elements in Culture, Boston 1950 Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Barbara Spaces of Dispersal in Cultural Anthropology 9 (3) 1994 Leary, Timothy, http://www.leary.com 1996 Jane Levere Cyberbooths Offer E-Mail for Travelers in New York Times, 6.6.1996 Marrot, Michelt Ballad of the Cybercafe: Crossover Hit Abroad, NY Times, 4/16th 1998 Mendels, Pamela Where Food and Surfing Are Kosher, New York Times, 11.8.1997 Oldenburg, Ray The Great Good Place - Cafes, coffee shops, community centers, beauty parlors, general stores, bars, hangouts and how they get you through the day, New York 1989 / 1997 Schumacher, Max Assyrians in Cyberspace - diaspora on the internet, paper for May Josephs class Postmodern Theory and Theater, New York University, Fall term 1997, www.benecke.com/ambition Welsch, Wolfgang Information Superhighway, 1994 in http://www.uni-magdeburg.de/~iphi/ww/papers/highway.htm